The 2016 Casa do Capitão – mor is a very dry and unoaked Alvarinho that comes in at 13% alcohol. As is the custom with this increasingly interesting producer, this is a real table wine—no fizz. A little understated but beautifully constructed, this is filled with classic flavors but always dry and serious. The finish is lovely—this producer seems to manage that effortlessly—and it lingers a long time. This is a fine table wine with the grace and balance to be easily drunk on its own, too. It will be interesting to see how this ages. To justify the score, it needs to be in good shape in, say, 2020 or so, too. Its construction and debonair demeanor certainly make it hard to resist at the moment.